Professional Reviews
Antonio Galloni
Wine Spectator
Details
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Grape Variety
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Vintage
2004
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Size
750ml
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Farming Practice
Sustainable
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Sweetness
Dry
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Body
Medium Bodied
Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.
AG
97
"As has now become the norm here, Maria-Theresa Mascarello presents her older wines from magnum. The 2004 is a beautiful Barolo to behold, with an interplay of power and finesse that is utterly captivating. Orange peel, white pepper, wild flowers, lavender, mint and rose petals all blossom in the glass. The 2004 is just a bit less polished than the wines Mascarello makes today, although the truth is that by this time her late father, Bartolo, was not able to spend any time in the cellar because of illness. Today's wines are a bit more polished, but the 2004 is superb just the same, especially from magnum." -Vinous
WS
95
"Shows aromas of dried flowers, mushroom and plum, verging on prune. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and beautiful fruit. This is generous but subtle, with chewy tannins and loads of character. The real deal."