There is no address in Burgundy for which we have more affection than Domaine de Montille.Anyone with a pumping heart was instantly charmed by the authenticity and humility of the late, great patriarch, Hubert de Montille. Unequivocal and confident in his ability to reveal greatness through transparency, it's difficult to distinguish whether we are talking about de Montille or the terroir of Volnay, and that is the mark of compelling Burgundy. Hubert de Montille passed the reins at his famous domaine to his son Etienne about 20 years ago. He died about five years ago. Yet he is such a giant of a figure in Burgundy that it is still impossible to think about de Montille without thinking about Hubert. It helps that Hubert’s name remains on the label!Hubert may be best known internationally for making hard-assed wines. He didn’t care what Robert Parker or anyone else said. He followed his own vision of Burgundy tradition, which included a fair bit of tannic extraction. His passion and determination earned him a starring role in Mondovino, the anti-globalization wine film by Jonathan Nossiter.But Etienne changed things. He wanted more purity, less extraction. He was brought up with the likes of Christophe Roumier and other members of his generation, who wanted to emphasize fruit and terroir rather than structure. Almost right away, the style at de Montille changed.People liked the wines, of course — they can show very well on release. But would they hold up the way his father’s legendary wines do? A recently consumed, and very beautiful, 2002 Pommard seemed to confirm the they age just fine! Will they go 40-50 years like his dad’s wines? Who knows, and who cares, other than your yet-to-be-born grandkids.
What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...
VINTAGE2019BOTTLE SIZES750 ML, 1.5 L, 3 LCOUNTRYFranceREGIONBurgundyAPPELLATIONPommard 1er CruWINE TYPERedVARIETALSPinot NoirORGANICCertifiedBIODYNAMICPracticingVINEYARDRugiens-Bas, the lower and more heralded section of Rugiens, is a 1er Cru that many argue should be elevated to Grand Cru status. The name is linked to the red (rouge) soils that are rich in iron-oxide. De Montille is the largest owner of Rugiens-Bas with two parcels that make up a total of 1.02 hectares.SOILIron-rich, red clay soilsVITICULTURECertified organic, practicing biodynamicVINIFICATION2/3 whole cluster fermentation, 1/3 destemmed. Regarding sulfur, reds have the following: 45-65 mg/l total SO2, 20-25 mg/l free SO2.AGINGAged 18 months in barrel (45% new oak), then assembled and aged for additional months in stainless steel tank.
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