This is Sangiovese at its most site-specific: a single 6.35-hectare vineyard on an ancient river terrace, bottled on its own as a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. It comes from Barone Ricasoli, whose ancestor Bettino Ricasoli, "the Iron Baron," created the formula for Chianti Classico as we know it today. So it's fitting to see the family now making the case for the region one vineyard at a time. CeniPrimo is the smallest of their three single-vineyard crus, and its soil is the odd one out. It's silty Pliocene-Pleistocene river deposit with little stone, some clay, a little limestone and not much organic matter. Ricasoli's practice here is to hand-pick, then sort, and use only perfect clusters. 2018 was a humid, complicated year, but a very dry September and October let the fruit hang until October 5. The wine then spent 22 months in 500-litre tonneaux, only 30% of them new, so the oak supports the fruit rather than covering it. It's a serious Sangiovese for anyone who wants a Chianti Classico they can trace to one patch of ground.