Christophe Bonnefond took over from his dad several years ago now, and the first thing he did was dial back the new oak. He has also moved away from the small barriques—designed originally for ease of transportation but with the additional effect of maximizing the surface area between wine and wood—in favor of larger 400 liter casks. Christophe has no interest in making Australian Shiraz: he makes elegant and pure Côte-Rôtie.
The 2015 Côte-Rôtie“Colline de Couzou” blew us away. So pure, so fresh, so lively. The pleasure was immediately, but its depth and complexity snuck up on us on the finish. This is wine with distance.
We’re not the only ones who have tasted. Committed traditionalist John Livingstone-Learmonth (JLL) has remarked on the “steady progress” at Bonnefond, and says that the 2015 Colline de Couzou certainly merits four stars and maybe more. Josh Raynolds (JR), over at Vinous has also tasted, and finds "impressive energy and lift on the palate, offering juicy boysenberry and cherry compote flavors complemented by suggestions of spicecake and candied licorice.” He calls it "sweet and seamless in texture, finishing with very good energy and smooth, harmonious tannins.”
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