Antoine Sunier, Morgon, 2020

$33.99
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Antoine didn't immediately follow his older brother Julien into the wine trade, but in 2012 he finally quit his 'day job' to study viticulture full time, debuting two wines in 2014, one from Régnié and one from Morgon. This is sourced from 1.2 hectares of 60 year old vines. Traditional carbonic fermentation, then aged 7-8 months in 80-90% used Burgundy barrels with the rest in concrete, unfined, unfiltered, only a little SO2 at bottling.

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Although born and raised in Dijon, the beating heart of Burgundy, Antoine Sunier did not come from a winemaking family. But now he and his brother Julien are two of Beaujolais’ most noteworthy young vignerons...and it’s all thanks to the hair on Christophe Roumier’s head.

Madame Sunier worked in Dijon as a hairstylist to some of the wine world’s most illustrious names; Julien, the eldest Sunier brother, used those connections to garner apprenticeships before founding his own domaine in Beaujolais. A typical younger brother, Antoine chose a career path diametrically opposed to his brother’s, in a telecommunications firm.

But wine beckoned, and Antoine found himself spending all of his free time at Julien’s, helping out at harvest, working in the cellar and getting to know the unique terroir of Beaujolais. In 2012, he took the plunge and started enology school; he capped off his studies with an internship with Jean Claude Lapalu, a superstar of natural Beaujolais.

Antoine's focus is on the cru of Régnié, though he makes a powerful and dark-fruited Morgon from a small plot. His Régnié cuvées are elegant and concentrated; they practically glow with minerality, a product of old-vines planted on the region’s ample pink granite. He works exclusively with native yeasts and adds just a touch of sulfur at bottling.

Antoine’s wines have a fine tannic structure, delicate but unmistakable. They’re defined by a lively, plush fruit and an undeniable spiciness, along with that alluring mineral grip. They bear a distant relation to his brother’s wines, including a dedication to organic farming and lots of exuberant red fruit, but Antoine’s wines are perhaps a touch more serious: more structure, more minerality, more age-worthiness.

Antoine Sunier is a name to watch out for; just as his brother, he’s established himself as a singular winemaker in Beaujolais, crafting wines of precision from fastidiously farmed grapes.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 93
"Deep violet. Primary, mineral-tinged cherry, black raspberry and violet aromas take on a spicy nuance with air. Offers densely packed yet lively dark berry, cherry preserve and spicecake flavors and a touch of cola. Betrays no rough edges and shows excellent clarity on a strikingly long, subtly tannic finish that emphatically echoes the floral and mineral notes." -Vinous

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

VINEYARD
60 year old vines from the lieu-dit Croix de Chevre in the Grand Cras. 270 meters in altitude.
SOIL
Ancient alluvials and very rocky.
VITICULTURE
Organically farmed since 2003, full Agribio certification.
VINIFICATION
Gravity flow to tanks, indigenous yeast fermentations at low temperatures to preserve fresh fruit flavors and a delicate tannic structure. Whole cluster fermenteation for 8-15 days, horizontal pressing, manual racking for elevage.
AGING
Aged 8 months on the lees in 90% neutral burgundy barrels and 10% concrete tanks. Bottled with no fining or filtration. Total sulfur = 10-20 mg/l, Free sulfur = 0 (undected)

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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