Domaine Bachey-Legros, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot-Les Petits Clos", 2018

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The Bachey brothers’ vines in Morgeot were planted in 1950, so these are truly old vines now. This wine has been bottled in a fairly reductive state, so it needs a bit of aeration to blossom before drinking right now. However, with air, it opens up nicely to deliver a superb aromatic constellation of fresh pineapple, pear, a touch of nutskin, a deep base of salty soil tones, orange zest, a touch of iodine and a nicely discreet foundation of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, refined and full-bodied, with a nice sense of reserve, a rock solid core, excellent mineral drive and a long, zesty and perfectly balanced finish. This is a proper young Morgeot and could do with some bottle age to let its secondary layers emerge. It should age long and very gracefully. First class juice! 2024-2055. 93. John Gilman - View from the Cellar

Bachey-Legros is located on the oldest street in the picturesque little village of Santenay-les-Haut. The neighborhood looks much the same as it did 200 or 300 years ago. Indeed much of what they are about is decidedly “old.”

The family of Bachey-Legros has been farming in and around Santenay for 6 generations, going back to the 19th century, and they are most proud of their old vines, most of which were planted between 1935 and 1955. They farm these vines fastidiously, using traditional techniques and eschewing chemical treatments. They employ a similar old-school approach in the cellar, with gentle extractions and elevage in top notch barrels of varying ages.

Yes, “old” is definitely an apt word here, except when you are talking about the current generation of proprietors Samuel and Lénaic. These brothers are definitely bringing fresh ideas to the operation while continuing the long traditions of their family.

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