The first thing you notice about Christopher Tracy, winemaker at Long Island's Channing Daughters, is his enthusiasm and sense of wonder. Whether discussing semi-carbonic Dornfelder, his new label designs, or introducing you to his picking team, his joy is infectious.Drinking his wines is no different. Each one of his 30 cuvées is a microcosm of terroir using a slew of non-dogmatic traditional methods. That's right, 30 cuvées. Each of them thoughtful, intentional, fascinating--joyful.