Saint-Gemme is an obscure Sancerre commune, a far lesser-known name than Bué, Chavignol, or Ménétréol. But it deserves recognition, if for no other reason than it's where you find Domaine de Nozay.Saint-Gemme is a commune with its own character. It's a bit north of Sancerre's more famous communes and has a cooler microclimate. With France's run of sunny vintages, this is a major plus if you like your Sancerre crisp and light. The fruit's transparency highlights the wine's minerality and makes it something that is bth quaffable and complex. The domaine is run by Cyril Benoist, nephew of legendary DRC winemaker Aubert de Villaine. Perhaps this has something to do with the Nozay's recent conversion to biodynamics.
What importer Rosenthal Wine Merchant has to say about this wine...
s the name of the parcel just above Nozay’s cellar, which burrows into the side of a gentle south-facing hillside. Cyril’s 15-year-old vines in this relatively rich Kimmeridgian marl—known locally as “Terres Blanches” for its tendency to turn white during dry periods—produce a wine simultaneously brighter and more earth-driven than the Domaine du Nozay above, with an expansive, clinging finish of notable length. Fruit here is more clearly delineated, with a subtle chlorophyll-like note adding to the wine’s multidimensional character. As with the Domaine du Nozay, this spends just under a year in horizontally oriented barrel-shaped stainless-steel tanks on its fine lees, and is bottled with less than 30 milligrams per liter of total sulfur.