Saint-Gemme is an obscure Sancerre commune, a far lesser-known name than Bué, Chavignol, or Ménétréol. But it deserves recognition, if for no other reason than it's where you find Domaine de Nozay.Saint-Gemme is a commune with its own character. It's a bit north of Sancerre's more famous communes and has a cooler microclimate. With France's run of sunny vintages, this is a major plus if you like your Sancerre crisp and light. The fruit's transparency highlights the wine's minerality and makes it something that is bth quaffable and complex. The domaine is run by Cyril Benoist, nephew of legendary DRC winemaker Aubert de Villaine. Perhaps this has something to do with the Nozay's recent conversion to biodynamics.
What importer Rosenthal Wine Merchant has to say about this wine...
The soils of “La Plante Froide” are poorer and stonier than those of “La Marâtre,” and its 35-year-old vines—among the domaine’s oldest—yield a wine of crystalline minerality, lifted fruit, and harmonious elegance. It constitutes a notable step up in complexity from the previous cuvées, offering a longer and more blatantly saline finish, yet it still displays a satisfying and unforced generosity on the palate. Cyril employs old 500-liter oak barrels for around half of this wine during its 12-month elevage, using the aforementioned barrel-shaped steel tanks for the rest, and their presence is felt not in any oak flavors but in a certain lengthening of texture and refinement of minerality.