Chateau Yvonne, Saumur Blanc Le Gory, 2018

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Culled from a tiny parcel in Parnay, not far from the Loire River, this is a structured, intensely mineral dry Chenin that requires time in the glass ( and/or years in the cellar ) to unwind. Though ‘18 was a warm vintage, this is surprisingly acid-driven (lemon pith) and mineral-expressive, with brooding notes of crushed rocks on the nose and palate. Serious stuff.

Saumur: it is the little village in the Central Loire that produces such fine Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc and has become the latest target of wine collectors looking for trophies, potential trophies, or just great wines to put in their cellars. It's sometimes easy to forget that if you go to Paris, "Saumur" is still just a name that is scrawled on blackboards at simple bistros. You might order a pichet for about 12 euros, and get it a little chilled. Almost always, it is delicious.

Château Yvonne produces Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc that rank among Saumur's very top echelon, and collectors have started to notice. All of Yvonne's wines are made without artifice: there are no additives and virtually no manipulations, with the exception of a minimal amount of sulfur at bottling. This is fresh, pure, light, and natural.

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J
JR Thomason
Top-shelf Chenin

Le Gory, Yvonne's top white cuvée, is a wine that is probably best drunk with a little bottle age.
When we tasted it recently, though, the wine was pretty stunning: layers of sumptuous, honey-kissed fruit ( baked apples, pineapple ) tightly wound around a core of smoke and rocks.
It's luxurious but also tense, seemingly promising an even bigger reward 5-6 years down the road for those patient enough to cellar it.
If you do choose to drink it now, I recommend having it with food (Peking Duck, perhaps) and letting it breathe for 30min-1 hour before diving in.