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Clos du Jaugueyron, Margaux 'Le Clos', 2016

$131.99
The top wine of the domaine, from Cabernet-heavy plots on gravelly soils. Brighter flavors (strawberry, tart cherry, herbs) that show up in Theron's other wines are complemented here with darker elements like cocoa, caramel, and coffee – this has marvelous breadth and depth of substance, and a velvety-fine structure to boot. To be its perfume-y best, more bottle age (waiting til at least 2030 would be ideal) is required, but this will impress today if decanted a few hours and drunk with food. 2016 was an excellent vintage for the entire Bordeaux region that produced wines with good concentration, focused structures and brilliant acidities. 

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Michel Theron (of Margaux estate Clos du Jaugueron) is one of our favorite winemakers in Bordeaux, one of a handful of vignerons who are making the region truly exciting again.

Theron farms biodynamically, which is still weird for Bordeaux, and almost impossible to do in the Médoc. It takes guts (and maybe a little insanity) to pull it off year after year. But he does.

The cellar work is delightfully low-tech and low-intervention, with the wines aged in mostly neutral barrels or cement – practices diametrically opposed to those of big châteaux like Palmer, Margaux etc.

But none of that tells you how good the wines are. They are phenomenal. Like the great Patsy Cline, they are thoughtful and refined without the subtlest sacrifice of soul or purity.

Despite the natural approach, Theron's wine is not wild, funky affairs –they are transparent and convincing reminders that Bordeaux has some of the greatest terroirs in the world.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Red Blend

  • Vintage

    2016

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

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