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Domaine de Montille, Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru, 2014

$199.00

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There is no address in Burgundy for which we have more affection than Domaine de Montille.

Anyone with a pumping heart was instantly charmed by the authenticity and humility of the late, great patriarch, Hubert de Montille. Unequivocal and confident in his ability to reveal greatness through transparency, it's difficult to distinguish whether we are talking about de Montille or the terroir of Volnay, and that is the mark of compelling Burgundy.

Hubert de Montille passed the reins at his famous domaine to his son Etienne about 20 years ago. He died about five years ago. Yet he is such a giant of a figure in Burgundy that it is still impossible to think about de Montille without thinking about Hubert. It helps that Hubert’s name remains on the label!

Hubert may be best known internationally for making hard-assed wines. He didn’t care what Robert Parker or anyone else said. He followed his own vision of Burgundy tradition, which included a fair bit of tannic extraction. His passion and determination earned him a starring role in Mondovino, the anti-globalization wine film by Jonathan Nossiter.

But Etienne changed things. He wanted more purity, less extraction. He was brought up with the likes of Christophe Roumier and other members of his generation, who wanted to emphasize fruit and terroir rather than structure. Almost right away, the style at de Montille changed.

People liked the wines, of course — they can show very well on release. But would they hold up the way his father’s legendary wines do? A recently consumed, and very beautiful, 2002 Pommard seemed to confirm the they age just fine! Will they go 40-50 years like his dad’s wines? Who knows, and who cares, other than your yet-to-be-born grandkids.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 94
"A beautifully complex and again overtly floral nose offers up notes of intensely earthy dark berries, earth and smoked game scents. There is excellent richness to the sleek and well-detailed medium weight plus flavors that possess a ripe core of firm tannins on the impressively long and markedly austere finish. This robust and muscular effort is even more firmly structured and it would be pointless to even think of opening a bottle before it has at least 10 to 12 years of bottle age. This is textbook Clos du Roi."

Antonio Galloni

AG 90
"Medium red, showing a hint of evolution at the rim Not quite as primary or precise on the nose as the Pommard Rugiens, offering aromas of redcurrant, red cherry, mocha and underbrush Supple and broad, conveying a restrained sweetness to its flavors of red cherry, earth and dried flowers The dusty, palate-coating tannins avoid dryness on the persistent finish This wine typically opens early, notes winemaker Brian Sieve, but it's not yet really coming alive I'd hold it for three years." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 91
"The 2014 Corton Grand Cru Clos du Roi has a lovely bouquet with briary blackberry and a touch of damp earth, well defined and charming. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and good backbone; there is a subtle sea influence here with impressive structure towards the grippy finish that just has a touch of blockiness." -Robert Parker

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2014

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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