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Domaine de Montille, Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Bas, 2020

$279.00

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There is no address in Burgundy for which we have more affection than Domaine de Montille.

Anyone with a pumping heart was instantly charmed by the authenticity and humility of the late, great patriarch, Hubert de Montille. Unequivocal and confident in his ability to reveal greatness through transparency, it's difficult to distinguish whether we are talking about de Montille or the terroir of Volnay, and that is the mark of compelling Burgundy.

Hubert de Montille passed the reins at his famous domaine to his son Etienne about 20 years ago. He died about five years ago. Yet he is such a giant of a figure in Burgundy that it is still impossible to think about de Montille without thinking about Hubert. It helps that Hubert’s name remains on the label!

Hubert may be best known internationally for making hard-assed wines. He didn’t care what Robert Parker or anyone else said. He followed his own vision of Burgundy tradition, which included a fair bit of tannic extraction. His passion and determination earned him a starring role in Mondovino, the anti-globalization wine film by Jonathan Nossiter.

But Etienne changed things. He wanted more purity, less extraction. He was brought up with the likes of Christophe Roumier and other members of his generation, who wanted to emphasize fruit and terroir rather than structure. Almost right away, the style at de Montille changed.

People liked the wines, of course — they can show very well on release. But would they hold up the way his father’s legendary wines do? A recently consumed, and very beautiful, 2002 Pommard seemed to confirm the they age just fine! Will they go 40-50 years like his dad’s wines? Who knows, and who cares, other than your yet-to-be-born grandkids.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 94
"This is also intensely floral in character with its combination of bright and fresh purple fruit, soft earth and pretty spice wisps, especially anise. The succulent but puncher larger-scaled and even more mineral-driven flavors flash good power and a taut muscularity on the moderately austere finale. This will need to add depth to merit the upper end of my suggested range."

Antonio Galloni

AG 95
"The 2020 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas 1er Cru has a very strict and linear nose at first, mineral-driven with light undergrowth scents, the 100% whole cluster lending a light pepperiness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip on the entry, quite firm in the mouth, good volumes with a lot of backbone and sturdiness on the finish. This will require 5-7 years to soften so have a cellar handy." -Vinous

Decanter

D 96
"This is a superb wine, among the best of the appellation, with a pronounced plummy fruit touched with aromas of smoke, spice and floral notes, plus a texture that is firm, dense and tannic but in no way hard or astringent. Lovely. Rugiens-Bas is considered the best part of the vineyard and the domaine has a hectare here, just north of the Hospices, low on the slope in the heart of the iron band. The 50-year-old vines produced a lovely, ripe harvest in 2020, and the grapes were fermented entirely as whole clusters and aged in 40% new casks."

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

VINEYARD
Rugiens-Bas, the lower and more heralded section of Rugiens, is a 1er Cru that many argue should be elevated to Grand Cru status. The name is linked to the red (rouge) soils that are rich in iron-oxide. De Montille is the largest owner of Rugiens-Bas with two parcels that make up a total of 1.02 hectares.
SOIL
Iron-rich, red clay soils
VITICULTURE
Certified organic, practicing biodynamic
VINIFICATION
2/3 whole cluster fermentation, 1/3 destemmed. Regarding sulfur, reds have the following: 45-65 mg/l total SO2, 20-25 mg/l free SO2.
AGING
Aged 18 months in barrel (45% new oak), then assembled and aged for additional months in stainless steel tank.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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