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Domaine de Montille, Volnay 1er Cru En Champans, 2017


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All of the 1er Cru Volnays in the Montille line up are meant for long term cellaring, but if there is one that starts to drink a little earlier it is usually the Champans. Earthy, red fruit, elegance and depth.


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There is no address in Burgundy for which we have more affection than Domaine de Montille.

Anyone with a pumping heart was instantly charmed by the authenticity and humility of the late, great patriarch, Hubert de Montille. Unequivocal and confident in his ability to reveal greatness through transparency, it's difficult to distinguish whether we are talking about de Montille or the terroir of Volnay, and that is the mark of compelling Burgundy.

Hubert de Montille passed the reins at his famous domaine to his son Etienne about 20 years ago. He died about five years ago. Yet he is such a giant of a figure in Burgundy that it is still impossible to think about de Montille without thinking about Hubert. It helps that Hubert’s name remains on the label!

Hubert may be best known internationally for making hard-assed wines. He didn’t care what Robert Parker or anyone else said. He followed his own vision of Burgundy tradition, which included a fair bit of tannic extraction. His passion and determination earned him a starring role in Mondovino, the anti-globalization wine film by Jonathan Nossiter.

But Etienne changed things. He wanted more purity, less extraction. He was brought up with the likes of Christophe Roumier and other members of his generation, who wanted to emphasize fruit and terroir rather than structure. Almost right away, the style at de Montille changed.

People liked the wines, of course — they can show very well on release. But would they hold up the way his father’s legendary wines do? A recently consumed, and very beautiful, 2002 Pommard seemed to confirm the they age just fine! Will they go 40-50 years like his dad’s wines? Who knows, and who cares, other than your yet-to-be-born grandkids.

Professional Reviews


BH 92
"A much earthier mix of red and dark currant, violet and discreet herbal tea nuances slides into the supple lighter weight flavors that are a bit more elegant than usual, all wrapped in a nicely complex and persistent finish. This is certainly good but 2017 is not a great vintage for this wine."

Robert Parker

RP 92
"The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Champans displays notions of red cherries, potpourri, dried herbs and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, fine-boned and tensile, and while it's somewhat austere in profile its tannins are nicely integrated. It will likely flesh out with further élevage and time in bottle." -Robert Parker


D 94
"There were only 50% whole bunches here in 2017 - it's usually more like 65% - but that was because yields were such that Brian Sieve couldn't fit all the bunches into the tanks. Pale in colour, this is very spicy and serious, with lot of pepper spice, savoury tannins, sweet berry fruit and racy acidity."

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

Pinot Noir
One of the most celebrated climats of Volnay, Champans is a steep parcel with a diversity of soils from the top to the bottom of the vineyard. The name of the vineyard is derived from two words "Champ" (field) and "pans" (old dialect for "pente" - slope).
Optimal east-facing exposure
The top of the parcel along the D973 is chalky with a light brown soil whereas the lower section of the parcel is more clay dominant with a darker brown and red-hued soil.
Certified organic, practicing biodynamic
50% whole cluster fermentation, 50% destemmed. Regarding sulfur, reds have the following: 45-65 mg/l total SO2, 20-25 mg/l free SO2.
Aged 14-18 months in barrel (30% new), then assembled to age additional months in stainless steel.
4400 bottles


  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage


  • Size


  • Farming Practice


  • Sweetness


  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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