Domaine de Montille, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts "Cuvee Christiane", 2017

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There is no address in Burgundy for which we have more affection than Domaine de Montille.

Anyone with a pumping heart was instantly charmed by the authenticity and humility of the late, great patriarch, Hubert de Montille. Unequivocal and confident in his ability to reveal greatness through transparency, it's difficult to distinguish whether we are talking about de Montille or the terroir of Volnay, and that is the mark of compelling Burgundy.

Hubert de Montille passed the reins at his famous domaine to his son Etienne about 20 years ago. He died about five years ago. Yet he is such a giant of a figure in Burgundy that it is still impossible to think about de Montille without thinking about Hubert. It helps that Hubert’s name remains on the label!

Hubert may be best known internationally for making hard-assed wines. He didn’t care what Robert Parker or anyone else said. He followed his own vision of Burgundy tradition, which included a fair bit of tannic extraction. His passion and determination earned him a starring role in Mondovino, the anti-globalization wine film by Jonathan Nossiter.

But Etienne changed things. He wanted more purity, less extraction. He was brought up with the likes of Christophe Roumier and other members of his generation, who wanted to emphasize fruit and terroir rather than structure. Almost right away, the style at de Montille changed.

People liked the wines, of course — they can show very well on release. But would they hold up the way his father’s legendary wines do? A recently consumed, and very beautiful, 2002 Pommard seemed to confirm the they age just fine! Will they go 40-50 years like his dad’s wines? Who knows, and who cares, other than your yet-to-be-born grandkids.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 92
"There is a more evident application of wood present on the even spicier aromas that seem slightly riper and more deeply pitched. Otherwise the mouth feel of the similarly concentrated and structured flavors offer just a bit more depth on the equally long finish. This beauty should also reward extended keeping." -Allen Meadow

Antonio Galloni

AG 94
"The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru contains a little more new oak than the regular cuvée, though it is also 100% whole cluster fruit. It has a supremely well defined bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and wet limestone aromas that seem to gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannin, impressive depth, silky and smooth in texture with a light spiced and intense finish that lingers in the mouth. This is an exceptionally fine Cuvée Christian that should offer 20 to 30 years of pleasure." -Neal Martin

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

VARIETALS
Pinot Noir
ORGANIC
Certified
BIODYNAMIC
Practicing
VINEYARD
The 1er Cru of Aux Malconsorts sits at the southern border of the famed Grand Cru "La Tache". WIth an altitide, exposition and soil type similar to its illustrious neighbor, many believe Aux Malconsorts could be a Grand Cru. "Aux Malconsorts Christiane" sits across a path that separates it from Aux Malconsorts, and rests on the northern and western borders of La Tache.
SOIL
Light brown clay soils with pebbles
VITICULTURE
Organically certified, practicing biodynamic
VINIFICATION
65% whole cluster fermenation. Regarding sulfur, reds have the following: 45-65 mg/l total SO2, 20-25 mg/l free SO2.
AGING
Aged in barrel, 50% of which are new.
PRODUCTION
1200 bottles

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