40 years ago Lefteris Glinavos looked around and saw an opportunity in his homeland, the remote, western, alpine hills of Zitsa. Nearly abandoned by its goat herder population, it was chock-full of the natural components for quality wine: stony limestone soils, high elevation, adequate rain, a long cool growing season, and distinctive grape varieties.He knew he lacked sufficient knowledge and equipment to make the wines of his dreams. He took a leap and armed himself with an oenology degree from Bordeaux, one of the first Greeks to do so. He then built and outfitted a modern winemaking facility, with all the trappings we take for granted today: stainless steel tanks, temperature control, and French oak—all unheard of at the time.Degree in hand, he could have followed the trends of the time: he could have ripped up indigenous vines, planted Cabernet Sauvignon, extracted it to death, in 100% new American oak, sprinkled with mega purple, doused in SO2 and probably won some accolades doing so. Instead, he mostly followed local traditions; just enough modern sensibility and technology were applied to create wines true to himself and his homeland. His influence was felt far and wide, and a slew of others followed suit.Now his son Thomas runs the estate with the same thoughtful ethos. New wines made from ancient grapes, like Vlahiko, a sensitive and endangered varietal with only 3 hectares left in the world.