Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne Epineuil Cote De Grisey, 2018

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Dominique Gruhier

Dominique Gruhier makes special Burgundy. Becky Wasserman (who imports both Mugnier and Gruhier) describes Gruhier's reds as Chablisien Pinot Noir. Which makes sense: his village, Épineuil, is north of Chablis and has the same bedrock of kimmeridgian limestone. And the Pinot that grows there does taste Chablisien: clear and pure with fruit that shimmers and minerals that evoke white wine. Elegance. When you taste it you understand why Mugnier (famous for his pure and graceful wines) was such a fan.

The reds are surprising. But what shouldn't be surprising is that Gruhier makes great white and sparkling wines. After all, he isn't just close to Chablis, he's also only a few kilometers southwest of the Aube in Champagne. The Aube is where top growers like Cedric Bouchard and Vouette et Sorbée make killer Champagnes. And so, in addition to uniquely elegant Pinot, he also makes a Chablis-like Bourgogne Blanc and a very Champagne-like Crémant de Bourgogne.