Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, 2018

$124.99
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Olivier Lamy is one of the rare burgundy producers who seems to be equally good at making red and white wine. He is endlessly experimenting and wants to achieve new heights in grape growing and winemaking. He is fanatic about pruning - where some growers might give up on a certain vine, Olivier will cut out diseased portions and coax a damaged vine back to health. This resurrected vine may only produce a few grapes but those grapes have such intense flavor.

Since 1995 he has been steadily increasing the vine density of his vineyards to 14,000 per hectare (compared to the standard density in Burgundy of 10,000; it's far less in other parts of the world). Some are planted at 4,000- 5,000 per hectare. He studied that before the phylloxera epidemic when vines were not planted in rows that vine densities were much greater - so he planted a section of one Saint Aubin vineyard at a density of 30,000 vines per hectare which puts great stress on the vines and reduces yields increasing flavor intensity, extract and acidity. He serves this wine last in a tasting.

There are no recipes at Chez Lamy - he harvests when the grapes are ripe which might be before or after his neighbors. He uses between 10-30% new oak at most but he may use none. The vineyards are farmed more or less organically but he will spray if he needs to fight mildew or oidium. These are uncompromising wines of coiled power and great tension - red or white.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 94
"The 2018 Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru has a pixelated, mineral-driven bouquet that manages to effortlessly offset the warmth of the growing season. Shucked oyster shell and limestone aromas develop in the glass. The well-balanced palate delivers wonderful harmony and a fine bead of acidity. Almost caressing in texture, with supremely well integrated oak toward the finish. Outstanding." -Neal Martin

Robert Parker

RP 94
"Complex notes of pear, wheat toast, citrus oil, mandarin and wet stones introduce the 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, a medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional wine that's layered and muscular, with excellent tension at the core and a long, mineral finish. This is a brilliant En Remilly in the making." -William Kelley

Decanter

D 94
"En Remilly is generally regarded as one of the top two Premiers Crus in Saint Aubin, partly because of its proximity to the Grands Crus of Chassagne-Montrachet. Olivier Lamy's expression of the terroir hails from two parcels planted in 1989 and 1990, and is typically floral, taut and nuanced, with wonderful freshness and salinity and the concentration to age." -Tim Atkin

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