Jean-Philippe Fichet, Meursault lieu-dit Les Gruyaches, 2018

$104.99
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Jean-Philippe Fichet

You know the story: As the most famous white burgundy producers become scarcer than hen’s teeth, even the producers we used to call “overlooked” are becoming allocated. The growers we used to depend upon to stock our shelves with great Chardonnay have become once-a-year treats that don’t make it to the shelf for long, if at all.

For better and for worse, we can add Fichet to the list.

Hard as it is for his fans, it’s obviously fair: Fichet is as big a talent as they come in Burgundy and nobody does a better, more meticulous job of expressing their terroir. He has lots of old vines with deep roots and the naturally low yields that give you not just his sites' tastes, but even their unique textures.

He accentuates the natural concentration by managing yields through rigorous winter pruning rather than a heavy summer green harvest. (That was one of Jayer’s secrets, too: he said that by the time the vine had created all those shoots you spend the summer pruning, the vine had wasted too much of it's essential goodness).

The farming is “lutte raisonée,” minimizing inputs. Most wines ferment in barrel (generally, older) on wild yeasts, and age for 11-18 months depending on the vintage and the site. Likewise, though Jean-Philippe uses relatively little batonnage, he will use some in certain vintages or cuvées.

The resulting wines are delicious and pure, with the sense of terroir that makes them worth thinking about, and the delectable fruit that makes us want just to drink them up.

Professional Reviews

Burghound

BH 89-91
"There is plenty of hazelnut character to the pretty and ripe white fleshed fruit aromas that are cut with hints of acacia blossom and citrus rind. The generously proportioned round and lush medium-bodied flavors possess very good depth on the balanced and moderately tightly wound finish. This well-made effort is worth checking out."

Antonio Galloni

AG 89-91
"The 2018 Meursault Les Gruyaches has an airy floral bouquet that just lacks the complexity of Fichet’s other cuvées. The palate is better with orange rind mango and light ginger notes on the entry. It feels a little waxy in texture and might benefit from more persistence but there is fine delineation and it displays plenty of nascent energy."

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