Julian Haart, Riesling 1000L, 2020

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German wine producers would traditionally sell “bulk” wines in 1000L “fuder” – the traditional German wooden cask. This is importer Stephen Bitterof’s revival of the tradition. It’s made from a selection of all of Haart’s holdings and just slightly off-dry.

Julian Haart is a genius wine-maker. He learned to make wines from the very best: Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller. He remains best friends with Keller and would no doubt be happy to be thought of as the Klaus Peter Keller of the Mosel. Certainly some people already think of him that way. His approach is extreme rigor: constantly tweaking, constantly experimenting, both among the vines and in the winery.

Julian Haart produced his first solo vintage in 2010. Haart was trained by Riesling legends Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller. With behemoths like these as mentors it’s no surprise that the wine world hotly anticipated Haart’s wines. He’s certainly delivered on those hopes. Stylistically, Haart’s Rieslings are like a Mosel incarnation of a Keller-inspired style; linear and focused, yet densely packed with complexity and depth.

Right now Haart has just over four hectares of vines, but those four hectares are seriously outstanding pieces of real estate. Haart’s holdings include plots in Ohligsberg, Goldtröpfchen, and Schubertslay, which has some vines that are own-rooted and over 100 years old. The seriousness of Haart’s wines resonates from the top wines he makes all the way down to his introductory offerings and, as such, makes his Rieslings some of the best values out there.


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    Light Bodied

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