Michel Autran, Vouvray Les Enfers Tranquilles, 2018

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Michel Autran gave up a career in medicine to train with François Pinon, and started making his own wines just a few years ago. He makes only a few wines, uses virtually no interventions, tiny quantities of sulfur, and raises his wines in neutral casks only. Each wine is focused on one of Vouvray's two great soil types: Les Enfers Tranquilles comes from a classic mix of limestone and clay, while the Ciel Rouge is silex all the way.

A more opulent side of Chenin here, with lots of stone fruit, ripe tropical fruit and white flowers (and a hint of bitter green almond on the finish), this is lush and rewarding. Though it was a warm vintage, Michel's typical acid-forward style shines through. A wine to drink now but with aging potential, for sure.