The Canary Islands are having a moment in the wine world right now, owing to their distinct terroir and unique, centuries-old winemaking traditions. Six of the seven main islands produce wine, all of which are varietally and stylistically distinct from each other. But of these islands it is generally the largest, Tenerife, that is regarded as producing the best wine. And on Tenerife it is Suertes del Marqués that is considered one of the best producers. The islands lie off the west coast of Morocco, and the North-facing vineyards of Suertes del Marqués are constantly whipped by Atlantic winds, ensuring the brightness and vitality of the grapes. Despite, or perhaps because of, these winds the vines here are very old, some reaching 200 years old in fact! Phylloxera never arrived so all of thes old vines are “pied franco” or own rooted/ungrafted. They grow on steep slopes and are trained in a totally different way than almost anywhere else in the world, growing in long braids some 15 or 20 feet from the mother trunk. And the grapes are all ancient varieties like Listan Negro and Listan Blanco, no Chardonnay or Pinot here.Proprietor Jonatan Garcia Lime farms the volcanic and sandy soils organically and has separated his parcels into crus based on their unique soil combinations. In the cellar is decidedly non-interventionist, preferring the “natural” approach to winemaking. He uses a decent percentage of whole clusters and ages only in neutral oak, something akin to an old-school Northern Rhone inspired method.
Juicy , Spicy