Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun), Beaujolais L'Ancien Vieilles Vignes, 2019

$19.99
Available for Same Day Delivery (or Pickup) in Manhattan.

From Jean-Paul Brun's oldest vines in south Beaujolais (40-60 years), this is a gem of a Gamay from one of the region's masters. Silky minerality and a structured, spicy core that will not disappoint -- whether you drink it now for its immediate charms, or give it a few years in the cellar for it to develop a little more complexity.

Organic farming, hand harvesting and traditional Burgundian winemaking (as opposed to the more common Beaujolais practice of semi-carbonic whole cluster fermenation), make this wine a unique treat, balancing natural trends and ancient techniques. 

But don't take our word for it! Josh Raynolds raved about it in Vinous:

"Glimmering ruby. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red/blue fruits, exotic spices and smoky minerals, along with a sexy floral overtone. Sweet black raspberry, cherry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that show impressive depth as well as vivacity. In a distinctly elegant, lively style with a very long, floral-dominated finish that's given shape by well-knit tannins that fold steadily into the wine's sappy, appealingly sweet fruit. This must be one of the best values in Beaujolais."

 

  • Manhattan, Brooklyn & Queens: Free on $149+ orders, otherwise $12.99 per case.
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Jean-Paul Brun, who founded his Domaine des Terres Dorées in 1979, is one of the greats of Beaujolais. Eric Asimov of the NY TImes agrees, saying he is "a fan of just about anything Jean-Paul Brun produces, from his cru Beaujolais to his straightforward Beaujolais L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes and Beaujolais Blanc to [his] lovely rosé".

What sets Jean-Paul apart? For one thing, he is a natural winemaker who staunchly refuses the label. Fine, we'll take him at his word. And yet, it's hard to find a more natural winemaker out there. He farms organically or sustainably, preserving and championing old vines. He ferments with natural yeasts, minimizing interventions. He may not be in the Natural Wine club, but that's because he was Natural Wine before Natural Wine was a thing.

He also stands out in Beaujolais for not using "carbonic maceration" fermentation (in which fermentation starts inside uncrushed berries), preferring a more "Burgundian" fermentation in which destemmed berries are crushed, allowing the juice to begin fermenting in the tank, and the wine to extract more "stuff" from the grape skins, including tannin and other polyphenols.

The result is immediately pleasurable wines with all the Beaujolais freshness you could dream of, but also with enough stuffing to age a few years in the cellar.

Where does the name, "Terres Dorées" ("Golden Earth" or "Golden Land") come from? The terroir, of course! The soils in the warmer, southern part of Beaujolais Brun calls home, are full of a rare iron-rich limestone.

Professional Reviews

Wine Spectator

WS 92
"Unspectacular, but this has subtle red-fruit aromas and beautiful balance for a “basic”Beaujolais. Lives up to its name as an authentic expression of how these wines tasted half a century and more ago. Long, delicate finish and very food-friendly. Drink or hold." -James Suckling

Wine Enthusiast

WE 89
"From the southern region of Beaujolais, this lightly textured wine has been produced from old vines. Red-cherry fruits and perfumed acidity come together well in this ready-to-drink wine." -Roger Voss

What Bowler Wine has to say about this wine...

100% Gamay. L'Ancien comes from Jean Paul's oldest vines--hence the name of the wine--in his home village of Charnay in the southern Beaujolais. They range in age from 40 to 60 years old and are planted on slopes sporting the area's signature sandy clay-limestone soils, featuring the particular local "dorée" or "golden" limestone that is laden with iron. These older vines have always been farmed organically and harvested by hand and yield small, thick-skinned Gamay berries. As for all Terres Dorées reds, the vinification is traditional Burgundian. The grapes are rigorously sorted and destemmed, crushed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats. The wine is aged in concrete until May-June after the vintage.

Details

  • Country

    France

  • Region

    Beaujolais

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay

  • Vintage

    2019

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant , Fruity , Juicy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied