Vacheron is run by two cousins: Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent. They've pushed the quality in recent years, converting to biodynamic farming while adding to their portfolio of single-vineyard bottlings. Burgundy is clearly the model for these two, and their best wines operate on a Grand Cru-like level. The main attractions are their single-vineyard cuvées, which showcase the patchwork of terroir surrounding the town of Sancerre itself. While these wines all posses fascinating differences, they share the Vacheron hallmarks of needle-point precision and an almost overwhelming expression of minerality. They are elegant and age-worthy.To taste the single-vineyard cuvées of Domaine Vacheron is to experience Sancerre at its absolute apogee – perhaps that of Sauvignon Blanc, too. There are other great producers in the region (the cousins Cotat come to mind, for example), but none explore the fascinating variations of terroir so consistently and convincingly as Vacheron.