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PART 1: THE MOSEL VALLEY
The Mosel contains the greatest number of superstar winemakers and extraordinary vineyards sites, not just in Germany, but maybe anywhere in the world. The snaking procession of vineyards are perched along the Mosel river, 142 miles long, which twists back upon itself so many times, it fits into a 80-mile long stretch of land.
This is where Riesling reaches its apogee. Here, a spectral rainbow of flavors and divergent structural expectations combine to produce wines of wonder. Every style of white wine is made, from the most filigreed dry, to unctuously sweet, from skin contact to bubbles, and everything in between, sometimes all from the same vineyard in the same year and by the same producer. With this one terroir-transparent grape for a lens, we are left with a dizzying matrix of factors affecting the finished wine in every bottle.
One might expect with such quality wines available, coupled with prohibitively-expensive hand-worked vineyards, that the wines would fetch astronomical prices. Instead, with few expectations, there are deals to be found in nearly every cellar.
2023 in Germany
The 2023 vintage was one of extremes yet resulted in some extraordinary wines. The vegetation cycle began early due to a warm, dry start to the year which was temporarily slowed in early August by significant rainfall. The rain provided an important relief for the vines as they regained some strength and composure for the final push to phenolic ripeness. It was an intense harvest from the beginning where timing was everything. Arriving at a vineyard or parcel a day late could mean a 1.5-degree oechelse swing with botrytis completely changing the complexion of a wine. These extreme conditions required an intense selection process, and growers who work without botrytis like Dönnhoff, were able to navigate the situation gracefully. The resulting wines maintained elegance and precision with a warm core and ripe acidity. It’s a vintage that will hold up over time but is especially giving in its youth.
PRODUCER PROFILES
Flatiron Favorites
Working through a list of a hundreds of wines from Germany and Austria can be a lift. We've picked some of our favorite wines for the uninitiated, those with specific tastes, wines for cellaring and because we just love them. The list is not exhaustive, there are just too many things we want to drink to include them all.
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