Flatiron Wines & Spirits NY

Domaine Jean-Marie Chaland can be found at 12 Rue de la Grappe d’Or, literally “Golden Grape Street” in the town of Viré. The Viré-Clessé AOC is one of Burgundy’s newest appellations, designated in just 1999. As we’ve seen all over the Mâconnais, interest in the area’s limestone-rich terroir (and less expensive real estate) has skyrocketed in recent years; Meursault icon Dominique Lafon’s Heritiers line proudly features a Viré-Clessé.

Making wine at Luca Roagna’s level requires intensity and maybe even fanaticism. Spend any amount of time with him and you will quickly observe plenty of both. As he pours you a sip of wine to taste, everyone watches in silence, and you can tell he is mustering every effort to pour it perfectly: precisely the right amount, no errant drip.

It is always a thrill when a bottle pulled from the cellar defies every expectation. We recently opened a bottle of Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu 2000 for the staff, bracing ourselves for a wine that might be past its prime. The year 2000 in Burgundy was known as a softer, charming vintage, one that was delicious early on but not necessarily built for the long haul. Yet, as the cork was pulled and the wine poured, it was clear right away, just from the color, that this was special, and far more youthful than its 20+ years would suggest.