Domaine Thomas-Labaille farms one of the most legendary terroirs in Sancerre: Monts Damnés. Today the estate is run by Jean-Paul Labaille, who has worked these steep slopes sustainably for years.
Monts Damnés rises sharply above the village of Chavignol, an ultra-steep, south-facing hillside whose name translates to “the Damned Hillside.” The reference is to brutal labor required to work this site. The incline is so severe that machine harvesting isn’t an option. Everything is done by hand. Farming here requires the constant presence of a dedicated Vigneron.
What makes the site truly special, though, is the soil: pure Kimmeridgian limestone. This ancient seabed formation — rich with fossilized marine life — is the same geological spine that defines Chablis. In Sancerre, it infuses Sauvignon Blanc with a uniquely vibrant tension, chalky structure, and distinctive saline cut.
Much of Sancerre delivers exactly what people have come to expect: crisp, refreshing wine for easy early drinking. Labaille’s Monts Damnés pushes the wine into another register. The southern exposure brings a sun-kissed breadth to the fruit, while the Kimmerigian limestone provides savory grip and texture. The wine is absolutely singing in its energetic youth, but with even just a few years in the cellar, this wine will gain stunning layers of depth and complexity.
Truly excellent Sancerre like this is getting more and more expensive. But Labaille’s genre-defining Monts Damnes is still remarkably affordable.
Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre Monts Damnés, 2024 $46.99
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