When it’s hot and humid and sticky out, the only thing we want to drink is something refreshing and ice cold. A lot of the time, that means rosé, or a crisp white. But what if we expand our horizons and our palates a little? Today, we’re feeling more like a juicy chilled red, or an aromatic skin-contact wine.
Portugal’s Douro Valley is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful wine regions in the world, with its steep slopes, lush greenery, and the serene river snaking along the vines. Of course, it was originally known as the home of fortified, sweet Port wines, but it’s also home to some world-class table wines. Today, though, it’s home to a broad range of still, dry table wines in a rainbow of colors.
Some of the most idiosyncratic and delicious examples we know come from Folias de Baco, Portuguese for “Follies of Bacchus”. This small domaine’s vineyards are planted at high elevation, 500-700 meters above sea level. Winemaker Tiago grew up in the city of Porto — his grandfather owned vines, but he didn’t exactly grow up among them.
Fond memories of his grandfather’s vineyard inspired Tiago to study winemaking, and he gained a PhD in Viticulture and Enology in Oregon. He returned to his family’s vines in 2007, and has been producing delightfully irreverent and atypical wines ever since. Where some Douro wines are big, inky, and intensely tannic, Tiago’s are featherweight and elegant, with tension, nerve, and low abv levels.
Renegado is a light red-dark rosé hybrid, a field blend of red and white varieties from 70+ year old vines. A light maceration followed by a brief aging in cement tank and old barrels yields a juicy, supple, red-fruited wine with flavors of strawberry, watermelon, dried herbs, and crushed rocks, the kind of wine you drink before, during, and after dinner.
Taking a sip of Uivo Curtido, Tiago’s skin-contact wine, is like biting into a fresh peach — perfumed and ripe with just a hint of structure. It’s made from Moscatel Galego grown on granite and schist soils, which impart a mineral quality that tempers the vibrant aromatics of the grape (as does the 4-month maceration on skins). It’s tropical and citrusy, perfect for a hot day or pairing with seafood, veggies, or cheeses.
Refreshment comes in all colors and styles. Take advantage of today’s discounts to stock up and stay cool all summer long:
Folias de Baco, Renegado Vinhas Velhas, 2024 $21.99
Folias de Baco, Curtido Branco 'Uivo', 2025 $21.99
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