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Neal Rosenthal has worked with the Brovias for decades, since he imported the 1978, one of the great years of the last half century for sure.
The farming here by the Brovia sisters Cristina & Elena and Elena's husband, Alex, is natural, using zero chemicals in the vineyard. This approach continues in the cellar where the indigenous-yeast fermentations in old, glass-lined concrete tanks took about a month this vintage. Always a pretty old-fashioned house, Brovia has recommitted to more traditional elevage. In 2008 they reintroduced large Slavonian casks for the first 18 months of aging, followed by another year and a half in French oak (previously, the wood was all French; both are 30hL).
But the best part is the family's vineyards. With holdings in Altenasso (Garblèt Sue'), Villero, and Rocche di Castiglione, Brovia underscores Castiglione Falletto's crossroads nature. Standing at the meeting point of Serralunga's Helvetian limestone soils of in the east and the sandier Tortonian ones to the west, CF vineyards vary enormously, and Brovia's bottlings offer a unique annual survey of what's happening in the zone.
And, as if that weren't enough, there are the vines in Serralunga at Brea, a cru that was featured in Renato Ratti's famous '70s-era map of Barolo's top sites, but which fell off collectors' radar for many decades. Preeminent cartographer and Barolo expert Alessandro Masnaghetti credits the Brovias with returning Brea to its former high regard.
Professional Reviews
Antonio Galloni
AG
96
"Brovia's 2010 Barolo Villero wraps around the palate with dark red cherries, plums, spices, menthol, new leather and licorice. Rich, sumptuous and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2010 is firing on all cylinders. Today the Villero is remarkably open, which is unusual for this wine. This early tasting provides a clue of what will develop over the next few years, and that is all hugely positive. Cloves, mocha and black fruit all add gravitas on the finish. Today the Villero seems to bring together the finesse of the Rocche and weight of the Ca' Mia. What a thrill it is to catch the Villero at this expressive stage in its development. A huge, creamy, totally voluptuous finish is full of appeal and pure sexiness." -Antonio Galloni
Robert Parker
RP
95
"The 2010 Barolo Villero is born from a vineyard site with southwest exposures and thick, compact soil and clay characteristics. As a result, this wine shows a greater sense of power and heft at the back. It opens to a medium dark color and pretty garnet highlights. The 2010 vintage shows a uniquely firm and solid sense of structure that will bode very well for the wine's future aging potential. The tannins are firm, but just shy of feeling too hard. They will of course relax as the wine evolves in the bottle. Give it time." -Monica Larner
Details
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Vintage
2010
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Size
750ml