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Battle of the Vintages: A Singular Friulian White from Ronchi di Cialla

 

Stylized image of Ronchi di Cialla, Ciallabianco

Since their founding in 1970, Ronchi di Cialla has numbered as one of Italy's most unique — and underrated — wine estates.

Situated on a limestone-rich hillside, the Rapuzzi family make wines deeply rooted in local tradition. While many of their neighbors grow international varieties like Merlot and Chardonnay, the Rapuzzis have dedicated themselves from the start to to cultivating historic local varieties like Picolit, Refosco and Schioppettino. They were even recognized for their project's singularity and authenticity with their own monopole sub-appellation: Collio-Orientali del Friuli-Cialla.

In the vineyards, they're strictly natural, with an emphasis on biodiversity. In the cellar, they work as gently as possible, eschewing the shaping influence of new wood in favor of stainless steel, concrete, and neutral barrels. The wines have vibrance and clarity with beguiling tension between rusticity and elegance.

We love the reds from Ronchi di Cialla, especially the peerless Schoppettino, but today we wanted to share a mini vertical of their stunning and singular white, Ciallabianco: a blend of local varieties Picolit, Verduzzo and Ribolla Gialla sourced from vineyards rich in marly limestone vinfied and aged in used barrels for a full year and a further two years in bottle before release.

Today, we’ve got the electric, high-toned 2021 and the rich, umami bomb 2014. It’s the perfect opportunity, with newsletter-only discounts, to drink this benchmark wine in its fresh and zingy youth — and with the magical imprint of time.

Ronchi di Cialla, Ciallabianco, 2021 $32.99
“Savory, nearly slaty in profile, the 2021 Ciallabianco wafts up with a burst of crushed rocks and wild herbs giving way to young peach. This opens with a pretty inner sweetness quickly balanced by saline mineral tones and brisk Ribolla acidity as crisp orchard fruits cascade throughout. The 2021 finishes spicy and long, lightly tannic, leaving the mouth watering as nuances of ginger slowly fade.” Eric Guido, Vinous

Ronchi di Cialla, Ciallabianco, 2014 $46.99
“With notes of hazelnut, musky dried apricots and smoky crushed stone, the 2014 Ciallabianco makes itself known. It’s silky and round on the palate with understated orchard fruits, yet it maintains balance through a bump of brisk acids. This leaves a lasting green citrus intensity, as well as minerals that keep the expression fresh. The 2014 vintage was very difficult, cold and rainy; yet maturity has served this wine well.” Eric Guido, Vinous

 

This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them.