Mastroberardino is the historic reference-point producer of Taurasi in Campania. For decades, they have made rich, powerful, age-worthy wines from Aglianico. Many consider their 1968s to be among the greatest Italian wines ever.

They have a Barolo-ish profile: alluring aromatics, high acidity, power, length, and endurance. But the grape and Taurasi's intensely volcanic soils give the wines a special twist. Blind, you might believe a Mastroberardino ringer is a great Barolo, till you take the tinfoil off and see why it was just a little different from the rest. Maybe you got a touch of coffee on the nose, or a hint of leatheriness in the finish—just a little something to take it south of Rome.