While we are fortunate that the fashion for big & bold, flashy & opulent has seen its day in Barolo, that doesn't mean that every traditionally made Barolo manages to achieve the harmony and elegance that we seek—but Brezza delivers.
The wines from this address have always been good, but they've become truly fine in recent years. Enzo is the driving force behind the huge step up in quality that this old estate has taken in the past decade or so, as well as their conversion to organic viticulture. He makes unfailingly honest and delicate wines of purpose.
Brezza's wines are all from hand-harvested estate fruit and are fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. The Baroli are aged in 3,000L untoasted Slavonian oak botti. None of the wines are fined or filtered. The results are classic beauties of red fruit and charm.
Professional Reviews
Antonio Galloni
AG95
"Dark cherries, pine, menthol, licorice, smoke and underbrush all take shape in the 2010 Barolo Sarmassa. The darkest and most imposing of the Brezza Barolos, the Sarmassa is backed up by firm tannins that ensure the wine will drink well for a number of years. This is the most tightly wound of the Brezza 2010s, so it will require a bit of patience. This is a deep and deeply satisfying Barolo from Enzo Brezza. In 2010, Brezza did not produce his top Barolo, Bricco Sarmassa. All the best fruit went into the straight Sarmassa." -Antonio Galloni
Decanter
D95
"A bastion of traditionally made wines, Barolo lovers know that there are fewer surer bets than the wines of Enzo Brezza. Besides outstanding Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera wines, his different, site-specific Barolos are standard-bearers for Nebbiolo and the DOCG. This Sarmassa is the biggest and fleshiest, given the cru’s warmer microclimate and higher clay content – in better vintages a Bricco Sarmassa bottling is also made from the best situated vines – neatly distinguishing it from Brezza’s Cannubi Barolo (sleeker due to a higher sand content in the soil) and the Castellero Barolo which falls stylistically between. Ian D’Agata: Bright penetrating aromas of red cherry and bergamot. Mounting tannins will require patience before broaching, but this is a promising, well-balanced wine. Michael Garner: Broad, fresh, ripe and rosy. Sweet berry fruit with rose and mint perfumes. Fresh, ripe and round with mouthwatering acidity. Very good structure with firm but ripe tannins. Perfumed, floral finish. Emily O’Hare: Beautiful, expressive and fine tannins, aromatics and flavours. Medium-bodied, high-arching palate. Excellent!"
Wine Enthusiast
WE97
"From one of the best sites in Barolo, this intense wine opens with a multi-dimensional fragrance of crushed flower, new leather, earth, incense, spice and black cherry. The vibrant, spicy palate delivers red berry accented with notes of black pepper, cinnamon spice, licorice and clove. Bold but noble tannins and brisk acidity promise fantastic aging potential."