"The 2009 Cote de Brouilly blend for the U.S. (tasted in final but as yet un-bottled form in June, after the individual lots had been tasted from cask in April) features blueberry and elderberry with pungent mint, marjoram, lavender, moss, wood smoke, and distilled berry overtones. Toasted pecan, carob, salt, crushed stone and tart berry skin lend stimulation to a fascinating palate performance of density yet refreshing levity, and this finishes with saliva-inducing persistence. In contrast with most Beaujolais crus of its vintage, I suspect it is apt to evolve with an emphasis on mineral savor rather than overt fruitiness. It should evolve satisfyingly for at least half a dozen years. Thivin Cote de Brouillys - including the cuvee that importer Kermit Lynch has been assembling for years here from parcels and pickings that are vinified individually in foudre - have a history of excellent aging potential, coupled with a tendency toward understatement in their youth, even in a vintage as ripe as 2009."