"The 2023 Riesling Steinporz Smaragd, also on paragneiss, is set back from the Danube and slightly warmer than the Setzberg, protected by the 1000-Eimerberg. The vines are between 30 and 40 years old. Even with a touch of apricot kernel on the nose, Golden apricot announces ripeness. The palate is brighter and tighter than the nose suggests, with ripe lemon rippling through juicy, ripe apricot flesh. This is juiciness; this is picture-book Wachau, ripe but so contoured, chiseled and elegant, bedded not on yeast but on pure rock. Zestiness and stone are the finish. This is a triumph." -Anne Krebiehl MW
