Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun) | View all Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun) products

Jean-Paul Brun, who founded his Domaine des Terres Dorées in 1979, is one of the greats of Beaujolais. Eric Asimov of the NY TImes agrees, saying he is "a fan of just about anything Jean-Paul Brun produces, from his cru Beaujolais to his straightforward Beaujolais L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes and Beaujolais Blanc to [his] lovely rosé".

What sets Jean-Paul apart? For one thing, he is a natural winemaker who staunchly refuses the label. Fine, we'll take him at his word. And yet, it's hard to find a more natural winemaker out there. He farms organically or sustainably, preserving and championing old vines. He ferments with natural yeasts, minimizing interventions. He may not be in the Natural Wine club, but that's because he was Natural Wine before Natural Wine was a thing.

He also stands out in Beaujolais for not using "carbonic maceration" fermentation (in which fermentation starts inside uncrushed berries), preferring a more "Burgundian" fermentation in which destemmed berries are crushed, allowing the juice to begin fermenting in the tank, and the wine to extract more "stuff" from the grape skins, including tannin and other polyphenols.

The result is immediately pleasurable wines with all the Beaujolais freshness you could dream of, but also with enough stuffing to age a few years in the cellar.

Where does the name, "Terres Dorées" ("Golden Earth" or "Golden Land") come from? The terroir, of course! The soils in the warmer, southern part of Beaujolais Brun calls home, are full of a rare iron-rich limestone.

What importer Bowler Wine has to say about this wine...

100% Gamay. The Côte de Brouilly is the steep, hilly heart of the larger Brouilly cru and was Jean-Paul's first cru bottling in the early 2000s. He has parcels totalling 4.5 hectares with vines from 50 to 60 years old, generally mid-slope and at up to 400 meters in elevation and with expositions mainly to the south (though with one east-facing one, key for freshness and balance in the wine). The soils are decomposed granite of volcanic origin are rich in iron and lie over hard granite rock. As for all Terres Dorées wines, the vinification of the Côte de Brouilly is traditional Burgundian: the bunches are destemmed and fermented with native yeasts and without sulfur in concrete tank. The maceration lasts 3-4 weeks (the Côte de Brouilly and Fleurie are the shortest macerations). The wine is aged in concrete for 6-8 months and bottled with a light, non-sterile filtration and minimal sulfur.