A New, Keller-Endorsed German Wunderkind: Moritz Kissinger
Our friends at Vom Boden have worked tirelessly over the past decade to expand the very idea of what German wine is and what it can be, well beyond the confines of “just” Riesling. Indeed, today there is perhaps nowhere else in the world producing more new, genre-defying, narrative-defining and downright delicious wines than Germany.
One of the most exciting young growers to emerge from New-Wave Germany is Moritz Kissinger, from the limestone-rich soils of the Rheinhessen. Moritz biodynamically farms just under 4 hectares of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.
The winery and vineyards are located in the obscure village of Uelversheim, a 15 minutes' drive from Westhofen, home to Klaus-Peter Keller and some of the most celebrated Riesling terroirs in the world. Indeed, it was Keller (for whom Moritz worked in the cellar for a few years) who first turned the world on to this young vigneron’s work when he praised a bottle of Moritz’s inaugural release of Chardonnay on Instagram.
Out in the hinterlands, Moritz is free to produce wines that are untethered from the pressure and expectations felt by growers working on famous Grand Crus. His wines have more in common with progressive growers from the Jura or Burgundy than with most of his Rheinhessen neighbors. They are taut, tense and linear with a kiss of noble reduction supporting the electric, crunchy fruit. These wines burst with unstoppable energy.
Today we are so excited to share with you three different wines that are a perfect introduction to the work of this rising star grower
Moritz Kissinger, "0 Ohm" Red, 2022 $29.99
100% Pinot Noir from limestone and loess soils. Partially destemmed and given a very gentle 10 day infusion-style maceration leading to a wine bursting with crunchy red fruit, zingy acidity with an alluring herbaceous undertone.
Moritz Kissinger, "0 Ohm" White, 2022 $29.99
50% chardonnay from limestone and 50% pinot blanc grown loess loam. Raised in 3-5 year old barrels for 9 months before resting in tank for 3 more months before bottling. Texturally this wine reminds us of our favorite reductive Chardonnay from Jura or Burgundy. Bright yellow fruits, cutting minerality and unstoppable length.
Moritz Kissinger, Winzersekt No. 2, NV $44.99
A stunning blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the 2021 harvest blended with around 15 percent reserve wines from 2019 and 2020. Moritz spent a few months with Cedric Moussé in Champagne to hone his sparkling wine expertise. This wine is vibrant, hugely aromatic, and crushes many famous Champagnes at twice the price.
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