Montepeloso is one of the most exciting and dynamic estates on the Tuscan coast.

—Antonio Galloni, Vinous
 
Super Tuscans have earned their place among Italy’s greatest wines, but critics often label them “international” — a backhanded compliment suggesting they lack true Tuscan soul. After all, these wines rely on French varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, grown in a warm climate, much like what you’d find in California or Chile.

That’s fair to an extent. But as always with wine, the truth is more nuanced, and not all Super Tuscans chase international appeal. Enter Montepeloso, proving that “Super” doesn’t have to mean “international.”

Super Tuscans were born in Maremma, away from Chianti’s rigid rules and along the Tuscan coast, which proved ideal for Bordeaux varieties. The movement began in Bolgheri, where gravel soils mirror Bordeaux’s Médoc, and in the 1940s, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta San Guido for personal use. It wasn’t until the 1970s that friends convinced him to release his wines commercially, creating one of Italy’s most famous wines.

Founded in the 1990s, Montepeloso set out to craft a more Tuscan expression of the Super Tuscan ideal. They chose Suvereto, south of Bolgheri, where cool Mediterranean breezes keep vineyards fresh. The terroir here isn’t gravel but clay, limestone, schist, silex, and iron, creating wines with a wilder, earthier personality.

The land is unmistakably Tuscan, perfumed with scrubby wild herbs known as “Macchia”—rosemary, juniper, thyme, and myrtle. Locals say Macchia is Tuscany’s real terroir, flavoring everything from wild boar to Montepeloso’s wines.

Montepeloso follows this same philosophy in the vineyard. Yes, Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah grow here, but they take a backseat to Sangiovese, Tuscany’s noble grape (along with Alicante and Malvasia Nera). Barriques are used, but never new barrels — a deliberate decision to avoid the classic Cabernet + new oak formula seemingly designed to impress international yacht owners.

Montepeloso’s 2022 Eneo captures this vision perfectly. Sangiovese leads the blend, with support from Cabernet Sauvignon and Malvasia Nera. It has all the power and polish of a Super Tuscan without suffocating its Tuscan character. The flavors of Macchia and Mediterranean freshness shine through, while the Sangiovese keeps everything unmistakably Italian.

Pricing for a wine of this quality is excellent. As this will only improve for years to come, we recommend stocking up:

Montepeloso, Eneo Rosso, 2022 $49.99
“The 2022 Eneo is superb. Rich and expansive on the palate, the 2022 offers up an exotic mélange of black cherry, plum, leather, licorice, incense and espresso. There’s gorgeous mid-palate depth and plenty of textural richness, but in the more restrained style that informs these wines today. The long, silky finish is pure class.” —Antonio Galloni, Vinous