Thomas-Labaille’s Monts Damnés Sancerre isn’t just any old Sancerre. It’s from, arguably, the best site in Sancerre, crazy-steep and full of Kimmeridgian limestone .

And it's from inarguably one of its best, low-key producers. Jean-Paul Labaille isn’t out there trying to make the next Le Montrachet. He’s farming the old family vines in the old family way and making a wine that is a delicious, classical expression of that terroir.

Most of all, it’s a fan favorite. Every year we sell out just about as quickly as we get it in. And it’s been one of the quintessential examples of a white wine we love for the “reasonable cellar” — with just a couple of years chilling, the wine integrates and opens up in ways both terroir focused and expressive of the fruit.

So you can imagine how surprised we were to hear that a distributor in another state had never taken their 2022 and 2023 allocations and the wine was now available to us. This never happens – and and obviously we took everything we could get! It still isn’t close to enough to last. But we think it’s enough to be able to make all our newsletter-reading friends happy.

Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre Les Monts Damnés, 2023 $41.99
This is a more classic vintage than the recent norm, with lots of tension, high-toned fruit and the mineral notes that echo Sancerre’s Kimmeridgian-cousin, Chablis. Would this do well in the cellar for a little while? Of course! But with warmer weather coming, it will be hard not just to enjoy it now.

Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre Les Monts Damnés, 2022 $41.99
A richer vintage, as well as being a year further in evolution, makes this a no-brainer for drinking now. Chalky undertones, riper fruit, deliciousness.

Check out our Ultimate guide to Sancerre for a deep dive into the region or you can peruse the collection directly for NYC's best selection of Sancerre.