Chavignol Speaks: Boulay’s 2023 Single-Vineyard Sancerres
Gérard Boulay is a quiet guy. He lets Chavignol do the talking.
And with his family’s collection of prime terroirs, the message comes through loud and clear: the wines crackle with energy and crystal-clear expressions of terroir, balancing profound minerality with deliciously ripe fruit.
For me, the wines of Gérard Boulay stand shoulder to shoulder with — and often surpass — those of his more famous neighbors, including the Cotat brothers, Vacheron, and Vatan. And they do so without the eye-popping price tags.
The family has deep roots in Chavignol — land records mention a Boulay owning vines here as far back as 1380. Today, the domaine farms 9 hectares, 8 of which lie on Chavignol’s steep, fossil-rich slopes of pure Kimmeridgian limestone — the ancient marine bedrock that gives the wines their unmistakable mineral edge. With old vines (the youngest planted in 1972) and over 35 years of organic farming (still a regrettable rarity in Sancerre), it’s no wonder the terroir shines through.
In contrast to the extremes of recent vintages, 2023 is a bit of a throwback: relatively cool weather yielded wines of brightness, precision, and lift. They’re already beautifully aromatic, with layers of exotic Sauvignon fruit, white pepper, and crushed stone — but with the structure to evolve gracefully over the next decade. Boulay avoids botrytis at all costs, unlike some other famous Sancerres. Nothing is allowed to mute the clear, mineral voice of Chavignol.
Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Monts Damnés, 2023 $72.99
Planted in the early 1970s, Boulay has worked this steep, south-facing slope since 1982, and it's one of the warmest and most revered sites in Chavignol. The vineyard’s classic terre-blanche soils — Kimmeridgian marl rich with marine fossils — lend structure and minerality. Monts Damnés consistently delivers ripeness balanced by vibrant acidity.
Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu, 2023 $72.99
From vines planted in the early 1950s. Boulay’s parcel lies within the original boundaries of the clos on a slope that reaches up to a 60% gradient — a dramatic, difficult site that must be worked entirely by hand. The soils are rocky, limestone-rich, and packed with fossils, producing a wine of depth and savory minerality.
Gerard Boulay, Sancerre La Cote, 2023 $76.99
“La Côte” comes from Boulay’s parcel in La Grande Côte — one of three designated Crus of Chavignol. The vineyard is southeast-facing with chalky terre blanche soils that amplify clarity and tension in the wine. First bottled in 2010, La Côte tends to be the most linear and high-toned of Boulay’s single-vineyard offerings, with pure focus and laser precision.
Gerard Boulay, Sancerre Comtesse, 2023 $92.99
Comtesse is Boulay’s flagship cuvée, from their oldest vines planted just after WWII at the bottom of Monts Damnés, just next to Clos la Neore (of Vatan fame). This is a warmer section of the slope with deeper Kimmeridgian soils, and the resulting wine is always the richest and most powerful in the range. First produced in 2005, Comtesse is made in very small quantities and delivers a deeper, more textural expression of Chavignol without sacrificing precision.
Check out our Ultimate guide to Sancerre for a deep dive into the region or you can peruse the collection directly for NYC's best selection of Sancerre.
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