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Astounding Assrytiko from Ancient Vines: Karamolegos's Santorini Trio

Stylized image of Greek wine bottles

It boggles the mind to think that anyone, at anytime, thought to plant vines on Santorini. The soils are rocky and poor, the wind is strong and salty, and the glare of the sun is scorching. It’s a strikingly beautiful, yet incredibly inhospitable, landscape.

And yet, thousands of years ago, the ancient Greeks laid the groundwork for the now thriving wine culture on the island. It wasn’t always horseshoe-shaped; one of the world’s largest volcanic eruptions — ever — devastated the island in ~1600 BCE. It blanketed the island with volcanic ash and rocks and formed the caldera at the island’s center. Debris from the eruption has been found as far away as Australia and is believed to have affected the weather in Egypt and China, according to records.

Assyrtiko and a smattering of other indigenous varieties are grown everywhere, in front yards, traffic circles, and next to seafood restaurants. Over millennia, the vines have adapted to the harsh climate, and Santorini is the rare wine growing region not to have succumbed to the international varieties trend of the late 20th century — nothing else will grow in this climate of extremes.

Artemis Karamolegos, born and raised on the island, is carrying on his family’s legacy at his eponymous winery. The focus is, without a doubt, Assyrtiko in all its glory and potential. Artemis owns some vineyards — most of which are over a hundred years old — and maintains good relationships with smaller growers.

As more and more small landholders sell off their plots to hotels, resorts, and restaurants, and with the incredibly limited yields of the 2024 vintage, it’s been harder and harder to stock Santorini’s iconic and intensely mineral wines. Luckily for us, the wines of Artemis Karamolegos are newly available stateside, and they provide a gorgeous snapshot of everything this volcanic island has to offer — salt, smoke, intensity of fruit, elegance.

We’re very happy to stock these Assyrtiko-based wines on our shelves, bringing a bit of the Mediterranean to the isle of Manhattan. 

Artemis Karamolegos Winery, Terra Nera Assyrtiko, 2024 $33.99
This is a blend of 85% Assyrtiko augmented by a touch of Aidani, another grape native to Santorini. The Assyrtiko comes from Karamolegos’ “young” vines, averaging 50 years of age. It’s briny and fruity, with flavors of citrus and melon, and an elegant minerality. Drink with anything from the sea, grilled or roasted veggies, or a simple white pizza.

Artemis Karamolegos Winery, Santorini Kouloura, 2023 $64.99
From 80+ year old vines, this is 90% Assyrtiko with 5% each Aidani and Athiri. It’s rich and ample on the palate, with intense minerality, fresh acidity, and plenty of salt and smoke. It’s fermented and aged in stainless steel, and rests on its lees for at least 1 year, imparting a lush texture and even more salinity.

Artemis Karamolegos Winery, Pyritis, 2023 $89.99
Think Greek Meursault — it comes from 100+ year old vines from five of the most distinguished villages: Pyrgos, Megalochori, Exo Gonia, Akrotiri and Fira. Only free run juice is used. 80% ferments in stainless steel tanks and 20% in old barrels, concrete and clay vessels, aging on the lees for at least 1 year. Stone fruits, tea and mineral finish. Creaminess balances bright and taut acidity. High concentration and fine complexity.

 

This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them.