Who's Peter Max? And why is his name on a South African Pinot Noir that enthralls anyone who tastes it?

It's actually two guys: Peter and Max are the names of the growers whose fruit went into the first vintage of this wine, a multi-vineyard blend that's meant to encapsulate everything good about South Africa's misty, cold Walker Bay region and its coastal neighbors. There's also Peter as in winemaker Peter-Allen Finlayson, who founded Crystallum in partnership with his brother Andrew.

It's safe to say they share the winemaking gene: they are the third generation of Finlayson winemakers, and sons of South Africa's greatest Pinot Noir pioneer. Perhaps you've tasted a wine with the Bouchard-Finlayson label, or perhaps you've heard of the winery where their father (another Peter) was the founding winemaker, Hamilton-Russell in now-famous Hemel-en-Aarde, one of the most decorated Pinot Noir producers in the New World. Pinot is the family business.

With Andrew in the vineyard and Peter-Allen in the winery, Crystallum has become one of the top reasons to drink wines from South Africa's coolest sites. The winery's home base, Walker Bay, is a spectacular coastal appellation from whose shore it's possible to experience the best whale-watching in the world. But the region also boasts shale and sandstone soils that produce gorgeously silky Pinot Noir with dusty tannins, classic earthiness and clear minerality. Crystallum's Peter Max Pinot Noir contains fruit from five of their prized vineyards in Hemel-en-Aarde (it means "heaven on earth," and if you visit you see why) and greater Walker Bay as well as the stony, sloping neighboring Cape Coastal region of Overberg.

It's like the highest-quality sheets you've ever slept in on the palate, with the finest of tannins and a burst of minty freshness (only 50% of the fruit is destemmed)––but the structure is sneaky and layered, thanks to the nearly four weeks this wine ends up spending on the skins.

Crystallum, Pinot Noir Peter Max, 2022 $41.99
"The 2022 Peter Max comes from five vineyards and includes 50% whole clusters. It has an open, expressive nose with tart red cherries, raspberry and subtle earthy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly austere tannins on the entry. It's a classically styled Pinot Noir with a savory finish. 90 points" Vinous