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Old-School Tuscan Royalty, Bottled: Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva

Stylized image of Castell'in Villa, Chianti Classico Riserva, 2017
This is an especially generous bottle, one that shows the natural richness of the vintage in spades. Drinking Window 2025-2037


—Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

The 2017 Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva from Castell'in Villa just hit its drinking window, and we decided to celebrate by buying every last bottle we could find.

If you love Chianti Classico, you know Castell'in Villa. The estate is run by Coralia Ghertsos Pignatelli della Leonessa, known to the locals as "the principessa" — with perhaps a touch of irony: she's famous for being an uncompromisingly old-school winemaker devoted to preserving and expressing Chianti Classico's traditions and terroir.

The Principessa never gave in to the pressures to chase international recognition with modern techniques, but kept making traditional Chianti Classico, timeless and built for the long haul — the Riserva’s especially often requiring many years of aging to hit their stride. But 2017 was a forward vintage, and at (only!) eight years old, it’s starting to get great.


Castell'in Villa, Chianti Classico Riserva, 2017 $84.99
“The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is showing well today. All the textural intensity of the year comes through in this concentrated, full-bodied Riserva. Cedar, tobacco, licorice, dried herbs and incense fill out the layers. This is an especially generous bottle, one that shows the natural richness of the vintage in spades.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

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