It’s hard to beat the simple pleasure of a regionally expressive, complex Italian white with just a little bit of age. This is where the Fiano grape can really shine, its natural richness balancing the volcanic tension of its birthplace. In youth it’s snappy but often simple, but give it some time — both in the ground, as the vines mature, and in bottle over several years — and it can open up hidden layers of herbs, minerals, earth and spice.

We have an absolutely delicious one for you today, grown on volcanic tufo soils in the commune of Montefredane in Avellino. The Troisi family has been farming the regional grapes of Campania at 1,200 to 2,100 feet above sea level in these hills for generations, and vines range 25 to 70 years in age. That’s why we’re all the more excited that we can offer you their 2017 Fiano di Avellina Aiperti today.

This wine is in a perfect spot. Tangy and still very fresh, with delicate jasmine on the nose, it’s just starting to show the tertiary notes of tobacco, sweet baked apple and dried mint as well as an earthy bass note on the midpalate. It finishes with vibrant volcanic rockiness and a pinch of salt, lingering on the palate with beautiful acidity and that fleck of mint interplaying with the minerality. This is a killer-value Fiano to enjoy all summer long.

Vadiaperti, Aipierti Fiano, 2017 $27.99