(Image courtesy of T. Edward Wines)
Dear Friends,
In the fall of 2017, I remember one of my McMinnville harvest housemates coming home with a flight of new Chardonnays from work for all of us (a house full of winemakers, and cellar rats like me) to taste. I was stunned by the intensity, the quality, the linearity and the effortless elegance. I couldn't believe such Chardonnay was possible in the United States, right here in the Willamette Valley, and I would spend the next five years continuing to be stunned by the quality the region's winemakers were achieving with this grape as a counterpart to their already-staggeringly-good Pinot Noir.
I had no idea how lucky I was to be housemates with Maxence Lecat, then-winemaker at 00 Wines.
Those of you who are Oregon collectors need little introduction to 00 Wines. This project of Chris and Kathryn Hermann is in the 99th percentile when it comes to critical acclaim in the Willamette Valley. This is the extremely serious, buttoned-up side of this region, the side that convinced the top names in Burgundy to buy land here while they still could.
Chris Hermann lists Coche-Dury as an inspiration, and Burgundian and Oregonian sensibilities go hand-in-hand here. Maxence still consults Chris on both the Oregon wines below and the Burgundy wines they produce in Beaune, and Chris's consultation roster also includes Matt Perry (formerly of Antica Terra) and Rose & Arrow's Felipe Ramirez.
You may know the 00 Wines signature: the Willamette Valley's best sites, the Pinots fermented in 500L terracotta amphorae imported from Italy, the Chardonnays made via the “Black Chardonnay” method (focusing on maximum phenolic extraction and early oxidation to encourage complex aromatics, flavor and texture), and minimal SO2 at the press. No expense spared.
What you will find below are some of the most famous vineyards in the Willamette Valley, a few secret sources, and cuvées that combine them. If Oregon ever instituted Burgundy's system, these sites would be among the top candidates for "Grand Cru" status. These are wines for collectors who want their finger on the pulse of this region, who want to capture every vintage's upper bound in quality.
And as I've written before, the quality of the 2022 vintage is exceptional, especially considering what a nail-biter it was from April onward. Frost devastated the early Chardonnay crop, and growers worried an early season would compromise quality, but Mother Nature delivered an absolutely glorious, warm and dry October that gave the fruit the time it needed to develop and ripen on schedule.
Among the "cool kids" of Oregon Chardonnay, there's often a need to wait 3-5 years or more before the wines are even close to ready to drink. But 00 Wines are somehow always smoking right out of the gate by comparison, even though they're incredibly ageworthy too. I asked Chris about it and he confirmed my armchair theory that his resistance to sulfite addition is the chief contributor to this amazing aromatic generosity. The wines are made with expert confidence, and best of all, you can enjoy them this year or in 20 years.
These wines consistently get enviable scores across the wine media landscape, and I've included scores by Eric Guido where available.
Quantities are very limited here, but just email your requests to julia.burke@flatiron-wines.com and I will do my best.
Cheers,
Julia
Available on request: Magnums, and a very small amount of rarities from 00's Burgundy project. Please inquire.
00 WINES, Willamette Valley Chardonnay VGW, 2022 $89.99
“The 2022 Chardonnay VGW tempts the imagination with an evergreen freshness before adding enriching notes of crushed oyster shell and raw almond. This is energetic and mineral-intense, with a stimulating core of zesty acidity and saline-tinged green apple fruit. A sensation of liquid stone adds further complexity as a sour burst of lime and salt lingers through the long, cheek-puckering finale. There is so much tension and verve within, which makes the 2022 a real standout amongst its peers. 92 points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
00 WINES, Willamette Valley Chardonnay EGW, 2022 $126.99
“The 2022 Chardonnay EGW slowly evolves in the glass as nuances of sweet sage and mint come together with Asian pear and stone dust. This is a model of elegance and form, silken and round with ripe orchard fruits offsetting tactile mineral tones and a tinge of sour citrus. The 2022 tapers off with exceptional length through the flinty finale, as a lemony concentration lingers under a savory herbal resonance. The EGW has Premier Cru white Burgundy written all over it. 94 points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
00 WINES, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir VGR, 2022 $106.99
“The highly expressive 2022 Pinot Noir VGR mixes kirsch liqueur with crushed blackberries, violets and sage, taking on a savory whiff of seared meats. It’s round and pliant, displaying lovely lift as juicy acidity motivates its ripe red berry fruits. A subtle tinge of salty concentration adds depth toward the close. The 2022 tapers off with an almost crunchy sensation, long and tactile, leaving a spicy flourish and hints of sour cherry pit to linger on. This is a beautiful wine of contrasts. 92 points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
00 WINES, Willamette Valley Chardonnay Seven Springs, 2022 $136.99 (EXTREMELY LIMITED)
“Delicate and floral in the glass, the 2022 Chardonnay Seven Springs blossoms with a bouquet of chamomile, mint and yellow apples as a hint of smoky reduction adds lovely contrast. Supple and round but also quite savory, this washes across the palate with a salty mix of white pit fruits and lime as exotic inner spice tones arc across the palate. It finishes like liquid potpourri, saline and long, leaving a crunchy sensation and a citrus tinge that linger so long. The 2022 is a spice box with many years of evolution ahead of it. 95 points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
00 WINES, Willamette Valley Chardonnay Chehalem Mountain, 2022 $165 (EXTREMELY LIMITED)
“The 2022 Chardonnay Chehalem Mountain pulls the taster down into the earth as a whiff of flowery underbrush, wet stones and crushed rocks leads to musky apricot and the slightest hint of patchouli. Vividly fruit-focused within, it cascades across the palate with ripe orchard fruits and candied citrus tones, all perfectly offset by a whiplash of zesty acidity and a stern core of salty minerals. This leaves the palate saturated in a saline concentration and lemony intensity, tapering off with extreme length and sapidity. The 2022 will require patience to come together fully, especially aromatically, but once it does—look out! 96 points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
00 Wines Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2022 $139.99 (EXTREMELY LIMITED)
“The 2022 Pinot Noir Shea lifts from the glass with a sweetly spiced and floral mix of dried strawberries, rose petals and cloves. Its round textures and supple personality soothe as ripe cherry-berry fruits settle on the palate, with a core of juicy acidity to balance. The 2022 leaves the palate stained in primary concentration through the sapid and long finale, as velvety lavender and liquid stone mask its fine tannins. A tinge of sour citrus offers contrast. This is beautifully balanced yet still has a lot more to say, which only maturity will unlock. 95 points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
00 Wines, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Stardance Vineyard, 2022 $128.99 (EXTREMELY LIMITED)
“Dusty and floral, the 2022 Pinot Noir Stardance opens with a coy blend of flowery underbrush and ashen stone before evolving with notes of lavender, green olive and exotic spice. This is silken and seamless, savory as well, with waves of tart wild berry fruits that swirl across a steady stream of brisk acidity and a saline mineral thrust to punctuate it all. A coating of fine tannins frames the finish but doesn’t get in the way. The Stardance leaves notes of licorice and tart blackberry that keep the mouth watering for more. The 2022 is just a baby today with a bright future ahead of it. Fantastic. 94+ points" – Eric Guido, Vinous
