It is always a thrill when a bottle pulled from the cellar defies every expectation. We recently opened a bottle of Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu 2000 for the staff, bracing ourselves for a wine that might be past its prime. The year 2000 in Burgundy was known as a softer, charming vintage, one that was delicious early on but not necessarily built for the long haul. Yet, as the cork was pulled and the wine poured, it was clear right away, just from the color, that this was special, and far more youthful than its 20+ years would suggest.

Everything that followed confirmed our initial impressions: there was still crushed strawberry on the nose and sweet fruit on the palate. Of course, there were also fully tertiary flavors: truffles, drying flowers, a touch of leather, and the like. Clearly, these bottles have been resting undisturbed in a cold, dark cellar since release, allowing them to age at a glacial pace that has preserved their life force.

It helps, of course, that the wine comes from one of the most prestigious plots in the Côte de Beaune. Santenots is a fascinating anomaly: the vineyard sits physically within the village of Meursault, world-famous for its white wines. However, because of the red clay soils in this specific sector, the Pinot Noir grown here is labeled as Volnay. Santenots du Milieu is widely considered the "filet mignon" of the vineyard — the center cut that offers the perfect balance of drainage and depth.

While Volnay is often described as the most feminine and ethereal of Burgundies, wines from the Santenots du Milieu section are famous for breaking that mold. They tend to have broader shoulders, more muscle, and a darker fruit profile, sometimes resembling the power of a Pommard but retaining the silky texture of Volnay This surely is what helped the 2000 survive so well to this day.

Finding a parcel of this size and condition is a rare event. Usually, wines from the 2000 vintage have long since been consumed or have faded into fragility. To find one that is singing with such clarity and freshness is a reminder of why we chase these bottles in the first place. This is a wine that is fully in its drinking window but shows no signs of tiring, offering a rare glimpse into the history of one of Burgundy's greatest estates.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu, 2000 $149.99