Two Flavors of Vollenweider's Mosel: Electric Dry Riesling & Elegant Bubbles
They say a convert is the strongest believer, and Swiss-born Daniel Vollenweider believed in the Mosel as much — if not more — than native-born residents. He arrived in 1999, quietly set up shop in the mostly-forgotten Wolfer Goldgrube, and began producing intensely mineral, chiseled, and vibrant Rieslings.
Daniel sadly passed away last year; Riesling lovers the world over have much to mourn, but his legacy is something to celebrate, too. Today, we have 2 wines from Daniel’s final harvest on offer, a Champagne method sparkler and a dry Riesling.
The sparkling wine, Tschiel, is 50% each Chardonnay and Weissburgunder, or Pinot Blanc, from 2 vintages — 2019 Chardonnay, and 2018 Weissburgunder. The latter comes from Wolfer Goldgrube, a site known for racy yet opulent Kabinett Rieslings. Only about 20 cases came to the states, and we were lucky enough to secure a decent amount. It’s elegant and biscuity, quite Champagne-like but with cool climate cut and a gentle herbal quality.
We also have a dry village-level Riesling from Daniel’s last harvest, 2021. The Wolfer Riesling is bone-dry, racy, stony and invigorating. Given time to relax, it beautifully shows off the Mosel’s classic flavors of lime, peach, and melon — you’ll see some recommendations to open it a day or two before drinking.
Daniel’s right hand man, Moritz Hoffman, will continue in Daniel’s footsteps. He continues to prove his skills, especially with dry wines; before Daniel’s passing, they tweaked the recipe a bit, harvesting earlier and limiting lees contact. This technique yields wines of great clarity and cut.
Vollenweider, Tschiel #2, NV $37.99
“The wine is creamy and spicy on the palate with some riper notes of toffee, muscade, hazelnut, and pear. The finish is superbly long and intense, and also slightly broader in style. This is a superb sparkling wine.” —Mosel Fine Wines, 6/2022
Vollenweider, Wolfer Riesling Trocken, 2021 $37.99
“classic 2021ers in form and incisive energy, coiled up and nervous with lime-zest, sea salt and ocean breezes. These are both precious wines to open 24-48+ hours before drinking, or if you can, cellar for a bit.” — Vom Boden
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