Michel Theron (of Margaux estate Clos du Jaugueron) is one of our favorite winemakers in Bordeaux, one of a handful of vignerons who are making the region truly exciting again.

Theron farms biodynamically, which is still weird for Bordeaux, and almost impossible to do in the Médoc. It takes guts (and maybe a little insanity) to pull it off year after year. But he does.

The cellar work is delightfully low-tech and low-intervention, with the wines aged in mostly neutral barrels or cement – practices diametrically opposed to those of big châteaux like Palmer, Margaux etc.

But none of that tells you how good the wines are. They are phenomenal. Like the great Patsy Cline, they are thoughtful and refined without the subtlest sacrifice of soul or purity.

Despite the natural approach, Theron's wine is not wild, funky affairs –they are transparent and convincing reminders that Bordeaux has some of the greatest terroirs in the world.