Julian Haart is perhaps the most exciting winemaker in Germany. His genre-defining Rieslings are feverishly sought by collectors for their crystalline transparency, unstoppable freshness, and raw mineral cut.

It’s no surprise the wines are so delicious. Julian trained with Egon Müller and Klaus-Peter Keller, two growers whose wines are simply as good as it gets. After a few years honing his craft with the masters, in 2010 Julian established his own domaine with a prime collection of family-owned Grand Cru sites on the Mosel's ultra steep banks. These ancient vines give tiny amounts of wine, and quantities of Grand Cru-level wine from Haart have historically been miniscule.

Enter, again, Klaus-Peter Keller. After years of working together, KP and Julian decided to do a little fruit exchange. KP always wanted to make wine from a steep Mosel site, and Julian was eager to try his hand on a great limestone terroir. So now, Keller makes his iconic Schubertslay and Julian makes the thrilling dry Riesling on offer today: “Rote Erden.”

Rote Erden comes from the Zellertal am Schwarzen Hergott, a cold parcel on pure limestone soils. Keller farms the vines, but Julian calls the harvest, and the fruit is trucked back to Piesport to be vinified and aged in Julian’s cellar. The wine is whole-cluster pressed and vinified and aged in large neutral barrels for 10 months before bottling.

It’s a stunning, full-bodied, and detailed dry Riesling that reads a bit rounder than his Mosel bottlings, yet the wine is classic Haart in style with gorgeous tension, laser-like acidity and a crunchy mineral core.

Julian Haart, Riesling Rote Erden, 2023 $59.99