The first time we tasted Pierre Girardin’s wines, we were floored. They had that rare mix of taut structure, subtle reduction, and soaring energy, all wrapped in a texture that whispered top-tier white Burgundy. When we learned the winemaker behind them was still in his 20s, we were stunned. These were wines with the quiet confidence of a seasoned pro, not a newcomer still finding his voice.

But Pierre is no ordinary newcomer. He’s the son of Vincent Girardin, one of the region’s stars in the 1990s, crafting bold, powerful wines that made a splash on the world stage. Over time, Vincent acquired parcels in some of Burgundy’s most coveted vineyards. Then, in 2011 — with prices soaring — Vincent sold the family domaine. But crucially, he held on to 4.5 hectares of prime land for Pierre to one day inherit.

That day came In 2017. At just 21 years old, Pierre launched Domaine Pierre Girardin. Backed by family connections and grape contracts with friends in high places, and working out of a custom-built, high-tech cellar, Pierre hit the ground running. His wines were under the spotlight from day one, and now, just a few vintages in, they’re among the most buzzed-about in Burgundy.

Of all his wines, it’s the Bourgogne Blanc he calls “Eclat de Calcaire” (“burst of limestone”) that most exemplifies his talent and his style. 80% of the vines here are in Meursault, with the balance from neighboring Volnay and Pommard. It’s naturally fermented and aged in Pierre’s signature 456L François Frères barrels (about 30% new oak).

This may be Pierre’s “entry-level” wine, but it is comparable to other producer’s wines that cost twice as much. There is finely judged reduction, bright citrus and orchard fruit, and a clear line of mineral tension that cuts right through to reveal its origins in Meursault.

The use of oak, sulfur and reduction, how to deal with a warming planet, how to fight off premature oxidation – these are all questions that producers of white Burgundy have wrestled with in the last decade. Taste Pierre’s Eclat, and you’ll wonder if maybe he has found the right path forward.

Pierre Girardin, Bourgogne Chardonnay Éclat De Calcaire, 2023 $53.99