Domaine Michel Lafarge is one of Burgundy’s great names, a true superstar in the pantheon of the region’s best estates.

They make very traditional Volnays that last a long, long time, are very limited, and are very expensive. But they also make some less exalted wines, which we affectionately call their “baby” wines. Though they’re more affordable, they still embody everything that makes Lafarge so legendary, they come from the same exalted terroirs, and they are farmed as meticulously (certified organic and biodynamic) as any of the more exclusive cuvées.

Chief among these “baby wines” is their Aligoté, “Les Raisins Dorés.” That name, “Golden Grapes,” is a reference to the ancient, special clone of Aligoté Lafarge grows: Aligoté Doré. You see, there are two clones of Aligoté: the common one (sometimes called "Aligoté Vert”, or "Green Aligoté") and an ancient, lower-yielding version known as "Aligoté Doré," the "Golden Aligoté”.

Aligoté Doré is prized for its expressive aromatics and lower yields, which help to ensure more intense flavors. A more fickle variety, and not as commercially favored as Chardonnay, Aligoté vines all over Burgundy were ripped up and replanted, but Domaine Lafarge’s vines are nearly a century old, having been planted in 1937. The wine is made with whole clusters and native yeast, and ages for about a year and a half in old, neutral barrels.

The wine can be drunk now — try it with shellfish or spring’s first asparagus — but we’ve tasted bottles with a decade or more of age, and it can be laid down for future enjoyment. 

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne Aligoté Raisins Dorés, 2022 $41.99
Old vine (1937) planting of traditional and high-quality "Golden" (doré) type of Aligoté. The vines are all, of course, massal selection and the wine is very traditionally made. Burghound says, “Bright aromas of green apple, spice and just sliced citrus lead to sleek, delicious and lightly stony flavors that retain good cut on the chiseled, very dry and sneaky long finale. Lovely and one to consider if you enjoy aligoté.” He gave the wine a ❤️ and an “Outstanding”!